Iceland: An Adventure Like No Other

Iceland has been on my travel wish list for a while and having recently spent a week exploring the country, I can completely understand why it is such a bucket list destination. It is unlike anywhere I have travelled before. From vast lava fields and dramatic waterfalls to black sand beaches, glaciers, geothermal lagoons and volcanic landscapes, there is something extraordinary around almost every corner.

What really struck me was how varied the scenery is. You can spend the morning surrounded by volcanic landscapes, stop for lunch at a farm producing tomatoes in a geothermal greenhouse and end the day soaking in naturally heated water. Iceland is a destination for those who want to explore rather than simply relax and I would highly recommend experiencing it with a knowledgeable local guide.

The weather

There is a saying in Iceland that goes something along the lines of "there are weather reports, and then there is the weather", and I soon discovered why! The weather is extremely changeable, and you really can experience all four seasons in one day. We had sunshine, rain, wind and colder conditions during our trip, sometimes within a matter of hours.

My advice is to forget trying to dress for the temperature and instead dress for the conditions. Layers are essential, along with a good waterproof jacket, waterproof trousers and sturdy hiking boots. It is not a place where I would recommend travelling with just trainers and a coat!

When is the best time to visit Iceland?

Iceland is a year-round destination, but each season offers a very different experience.

November to March

The winter months bring snow, ice and dramatic landscapes, with very limited daylight. This is the season for those wanting to experience Iceland at its most wintry, with the added possibility of seeing the Northern Lights.

June to August

Summer brings long days and almost 24 hours of daylight, making it a great time for exploring. Temperatures are generally milder, and this is also a good season for whale watching.

September to mid-October

This was when I visited, and I loved it. You get beautiful autumn colours against the green landscapes, glaciers and volcanic scenery, while the days are still relatively long. It is also the start of the Northern Lights season, although as we discovered, seeing them is never guaranteed.

April and May

Spring is generally a quieter time to visit, although the weather can still be unpredictable with rain and snow. By mid to late May, the increasing daylight also means the chances of seeing the Northern Lights become much lower.

So, rather than asking when is the best time to visit Iceland, I would say it depends on what you want to experience.

Allow plenty of time.

One thing I would stress is that Iceland is much bigger than it looks on a map! Distances are vast and many of the sightseeing days are long. Some of our excursions were around 9 to 12 hours, particularly when travelling further afield.

There is one main Ring Road around the country, but completing the whole loop properly takes time. If you have limited time, I would concentrate on a smaller area rather than spend your holiday sitting in a vehicle. For a comprehensive Iceland experience, I would recommend at least 10 to 14 days. If you only have time for a city-based trip, I would allow at least five days, but be prepared for some long days out.

One of my top tips would be to consider doing a half loop and flying back from the north rather than driving all the way back to Reykjavík. The drive from the north to the capital can take around five hours, and in my opinion, there are better ways to spend that time.

Touring Iceland

Private tours are worth considering. Iceland is a destination where I really think having a private guide can make a difference.

The weather can change plans at short notice, and a private guide has the flexibility to adapt the day. We were able to make changes depending on conditions, and our guide could take us to places that we would never have discovered ourselves.

I also loved the fact that our days did not feel like we were simply following a coach itinerary. Our guides were incredibly knowledgeable and shared fascinating information about Iceland, its history, geology and way of life. The main sights are spectacular, but they are popular and can be busy. Having a private guide means they can often take you away from the crowds and find those little gems that you would be unlikely to discover independently.

For the more remote areas, specialist vehicles are also essential. Our Þórsmörk Superjeep experience was one of my favourite days of the trip. The terrain is incredibly rugged, and you need an adapted vehicle to cross the rivers and reach the valley. The journey itself was part of the fun, and our guide was fantastic.

The Golden Circle

The Golden Circle is probably Iceland‘s best-known touring route and includes some of its most famous sights. We visited Þingvellir National Park, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet, meaning you can quite literally walk between the continents.

We then continued to Gullfoss, one of Iceland's most impressive waterfalls, before visiting Friðheimar tomato farm.

I loved Friðheimar. Despite Iceland's cold climate, the geothermal greenhouse produces almost a tonne of tomatoes a day, using geothermal energy and bees imported from Holland to pollinate the plants.

We finished the day with a soak at the Secret Lagoon, where the water is naturally heated to around 38 to 40°C. We also experienced Laugarás Lagoon, a newer geothermal spa in the Golden Circle, which offers a more intimate alternative with beautiful river views, saunas and a lovely farm-to-table restaurant.

Snæfellsnes Peninsula

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula was another highlight and, compared with some of Iceland's more famous attractions, it felt noticeably quieter.

The scenery is incredibly diverse, with lava fields, mountains, black beaches and dramatic coastline. We visited the famous Kirkjufell mountain, which Game of Thrones fans may recognise, as well as the black pebble beach at Djúpalónssandur and the beautiful area around Snæfellsjökull glacier volcano.

Whale watching from Ólafsvík is another option here, with the chance to see species including humpback and minke whales. Unfortunately, the weather meant our whale watching trip could not go ahead, but it is something I would consider adding to an Iceland itinerary.

Iceland's South Coast

The South Coast is packed with some of Iceland's most spectacular scenery. We visited the dramatic Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss waterfalls, Reynisfjara black sand beach and Dyrhólaey, with its incredible views along the coastline and towards the glaciers.

We also explored the Katla ice caves, travelling by Superjeep across the black lava landscape before heading into the glacier.

The ice cave experience is very weather- and glacier-condition dependent, but it was fascinating to see the layers of ice, volcanic ash and water inside the cave.

Þórsmörk by Superjeep

If I had to choose my favourite experience of the trip, it would probably be our Þórsmörk Superjeep adventure. The landscape was incredible and the journey was just as much a part of the experience as reaching the valley. Crossing glacial rivers in a specially adapted vehicle was great fun, and the terrain, it felt like a real adventure.

Our guide made the day too. We had the flexibility to hike depending on conditions and enjoyed a BBQ lunch cooked by our guide in the valley.

It was one of those experiences that I know I will remember for a very long time.

Northern Lights

Seeing the Northern Lights is high on many people's Iceland wish lists, but it is important to know that they are never guaranteed. You need darkness, clear skies and sufficient aurora activity, so even when the conditions are right, you may not see them. Unfortunately, the weather meant our Northern Lights tour could not go ahead during this trip, but it is certainly something I would recommend adding between September and March.

There are also hotels that offer a Northern Lights wake-up service. Hotel Rangá, where we stayed, has a dedicated system where you can register for a wake-up call if the lights appear during the night.

Budgeting

Iceland is not a budget destination, and this is something worth factoring into your holiday budget. Because of its remote location, many things must be imported, and prices can be surprisingly high.

As a general guide, you can expect to pay around £6 to £15 for a glass of wine or beer, cocktails from around £20 and main courses often £30 to £50 or more. Accommodation can also be expensive. Even fairly basic hotels can start from around £225 per room per night, while a good four-star property can be £400 to £500 per night. The more luxurious properties can easily be £750 per night or more.

For me, this is another reason why planning your itinerary is important. You want to make sure you are spending your money on the experiences and hotels that are right for you.

Fitness and getting off the beaten track

Iceland is not necessarily a destination for everyone. You don't need to be an experienced hiker, but you do need a reasonable level of fitness if you want to get the most from the country. Many of the sights involve walking over uneven, wet or rocky ground, and some of the best experiences require a little more effort to reach.

The good news is that this is often where you escape the crowds.

Where to stay

Iceland has a fantastic selection of accommodation, from stylish city hotels to luxury countryside retreats and charming lodge-style properties.

Blue Lagoon

Silica Hotel

If you are visiting the Blue Lagoon, I think Silica Hotel is a lovely way to start or finish an Iceland trip. It is just a short walk from the Blue Lagoon and is particularly convenient for Keflavík Airport. The hotel itself is small and intimate, set in the lava fields, and our room had an incredible lava field view.

One of the biggest benefits of staying here is access to the hotel's own private lagoon, as well as premium access to the Blue Lagoon.

I would also recommend upgrading to the Retreat Spa if you are looking for a more luxurious experience. The spa is built into an 800-year-old lava flow and has its own secluded lagoon. The food during our stay was also excellent.

Reykjavík

Hotel Borg

Hotel Borg is full of character and has a fantastic location overlooking Parliament Square, making it a great base for exploring Reykjavík on foot. It has a lovely sense of history and is very different from the more contemporary hotels in the city.

Reykjavík Residence Hotel

This is one I would particularly recommend for families or couples who want a little more space. It is apartment-style accommodation with a great central location and has been beautifully styled.

Canopy by Hilton Reykjavík City Centre

For something more modern and urban, Canopy is a great option. It is located in a quirky part of central Reykjavík, close to the city's restaurants, bars and attractions.

Golden Circle

Hótel Grímsborgir

This is a great option for couples, families and small groups who want to be surrounded by nature. The numerous geothermal hot tubs are a real highlight and make it particularly appealing after a day exploring.

Torfhús Retreat

For something more luxurious, Torfhús Retreat is a beautiful choice. There is a real attention to detail throughout the property, with sustainability at its heart. I particularly love the geothermally heated basalt stone pools beside the individual cottages. The local cuisine served in the Viking Longhouse is another highlight.

South Coast

Hotel Rangá

We stayed for two nights at Hotel Rangá, and I thought it was a fantastic base for exploring the South Coast. It is a traditional lodge-style property rather than a sleek, contemporary luxury hotel. In fact, some areas are a little dated, but that really isn't the point here.

It is charming, the setting is beautiful, the food was wonderful, and the staff were fantastic. There are also outdoor geothermal hot tubs, a stargazing observatory and during the Northern Lights season, a wake up service so you don't miss them if they appear during the night.

Skálakot Manor

For something a little more upmarket, Skálakot Manor is a beautiful family-run boutique hotel and farm. It combines polished luxury with a wonderful rural setting and is particularly appealing if you want to experience the countryside while still having plenty of comfort.

My top tips for Iceland

1. Pack for every type of weather:Layers, waterproofs and sturdy hiking boots are essential.
2. Don't underestimate the distances:Iceland may look small, but driving times can be surprisingly long.
3. Consider private or small group touring:The flexibility and local knowledge can make such a difference.
4. Don't try to cram too much in:It is better to properly experience a few regions than spend your holiday driving from one place to another.
5. Book the experiences that matter to you:Popular attractions and specialist experiences can get busy, particularly during peak periods.
6. Allow for the cost:Iceland is expensive, so factor this into your budget from the beginning.
7. Be flexible:Weather can change your plans and some experiences, particularly whale watching, ice caves and Northern Lights tours, are weather dependent.

Would I recommend Iceland?

Absolutely

Iceland is dramatic, wild and completely different from anywhere else I have travelled. It is not a traditional relaxing holiday, and it isn't necessarily the easiest destination, but if you love adventure, nature, incredible scenery and experiences that you will remember for years, it is hard to beat. My biggest piece of advice would be not to simply book a few nights in Reykjavík and tick off the Golden Circle. There is so much more to Iceland. The real magic is getting out into the countryside, exploring the quieter areas, meeting the local guides and experiencing the landscape away from the crowds.

And that is exactly where I can help.

If Iceland is on your bucket list, I can create a tailor-made itinerary around the experiences you want to have, whether that is chasing the Northern Lights, exploring glaciers and ice caves, soaking in geothermal lagoons, hiking through volcanic landscapes or simply discovering somewhere completely different.

Iceland really is a destination that needs to be experienced.