Bernina Express

From London to Lake Garda by Rail

This incredible rail journey takes you from London St Pancras to the Italian Lakes via Chur in Switzerland, then to Tirano onboard the Bernina Express, and finally on to Lake Garda. Wow—what an experience. From the elegance of high-speed trains to the breathtaking beauty of the Swiss Alps and the charm of Lake Garda, this itinerary is designed for travellers who want to see, feel, and savour every moment along the way.

I boarded the train in Liverpool, down to Euston Station and had a pre-night stay at the King’s Cross Premier Inn, as my train was at 7:03 in the morning from St Pancras.

Day 1: From London to the Heart of the Alps

I arrived at St Pancras, where there were plenty of staff around to guide passengers to the right queue for security. I then boarded the Eurostar and arrived at Paris Gare du Nord after about three hours. From there, a seamless transfer via an arranged private minivan took us across the city to Gare de Lyon.

The journey then continued through the French countryside towards Zurich, Switzerland, and on to Chur. The total journey took about 12 hours, but the scenery made it worthwhile.

Chur—Switzerland’s oldest town—is nestled in the Alps. It’s the perfect place to unwind after a day of travel, with a cosy dinner and a peaceful overnight stay at the charming 4-star Stern Hotel, which is within walking distance of the station—ideal for boarding the Bernina Express the next morning.

Day 2: The Legendary Bernina Express

Top Tip:

Sit on the right-hand side of the train from Chur—ideally at a table for two.

Today was the highlight of the entire journey—the world-famous Bernina Express. Often described as one of the most scenic rail journeys on Earth, this route is nothing short of spectacular.

We travelled in comfort with panoramic windows perfectly framing the ever-changing scenery—from dramatic mountain peaks and shimmering glaciers to cascading waterfalls.

Over the course of this unforgettable four-hour journey, we crossed 196 bridges and passed through 55 tunnels, with each moment offering a new and breathtaking view. The train climbs over 2,300 metres, and when we reached the summit, we were able to stretch our legs and take some great photos in the snow.

Then came the dramatic descent into Italy, where palm trees replaced snow-capped peaks. The most iconic moment came as we approached Tirano, where the train gracefully curved around the famous spiral viaduct at Brusio—camera at the ready!

Here, the Bernina journey ended in Tirano. We had some lunch and a quick walk around before heading to the main station to continue towards the southern shores of Lake Garda, with a quick change in Milan.

We arrived at our 4-star Park Hotel overlooking the lake at 8 pm, had a quick change, and then dinner in the hotel’s restaurant.

The hotel features lovely, quirky traditional Italian décor, a cocktail bar, and a rooftop swimming pool. Some rooms overlook the lake and have private balconies—definitely worth paying extra for.

Day 3: Desenzano del Garda

We wandered through charming streets, enjoyed a leisurely coffee by the harbour, and took advantage of some great photo opportunities.

In the afternoon, we took a small private boat for a scenic cruise across the lake to the stunning peninsula of Sirmione. It was a chilly day, with waves on the lake and snow-capped mountains surrounding us, but it was absolutely worth it. We arrived in Sirmione’s sheltered harbour via the castle, with its historic charm and picturesque setting.

Lunch at a local restaurant overlooking the castle was perfect. We then visited the Grottoes of Catullus at the tip of the peninsula—a ruin of a Roman villa built at the end of the 1st century.

We finished our visit to Sirmione with the best salted caramel ice cream I’ve ever had—you have to visit Cremeria Bulian. Don’t be tempted by the other ice cream shops!

In the evening, we went for dinner at a traditional local restaurant around the corner from our hotel called La Taverna del Garda, which I would highly recommend if you’re ever in the area.

Day 4: Time to Head Home

Time to head home—but first, another wander around Desenzano del Garda after breakfast.

We transferred back to Milan, although Verona would also be a great option if the dates work well.