Mythological Ithaca, Greece

We had the most amazing week on Ithaca Island, an Ionian island in Greece 🇬🇷💙

Nestled in the Ionian Sea between Kefalonia and mainland Greece, Ithaca is a place to take refuge from the hustle and bustle and enjoy a slower, more traditional way of life.

Timeless charming villages, where colourful houses, flower-filled lanes and breathtaking sea views create an unforgettable Greek island experience.

Ithaca isn’t just an island – It’s a feeling. From hidden beaches and sleepy fishing villages to unforgettable sunsets over the Ionian Sea, every corner feels like a postcard come to life.

Having fought in the Trojan War, Odysseus makes his journey home to Ithaca, back to his beautiful wife, Penelope, but it’s not an easy journey, as he encounters numerous gods along the way.

OUR JOURNEY FROM BOURNEMOUTH

Our journey to Ithaca was a bit daunting, not only were we travelling with children, but we had a flight, airport transfer, sea taxi and car hire to sort out when we arrived on Ithac, a. We were due to arrive late at night, before having to then find our way to our villa, which was a 30min drive away, along a narrow coastal road in darkness!

But Simpson Travel was with us the entire way, and we couldn’t have asked for a smoother journey.

Their communication was excellent,t even with my abundance of questions before we left, our transfer was at arrivals waiting for us, as was our sea taxi, which safely took us by boat across to Ithaca, where the lovely Simpson’s Travel concierge, Judit,h was waiting for us along with the car hire company a10.30 pmpm on a Sunday.

With detailed directions, we set off for our villa, where we arrived at 11 pm and were welcomed to a lovely essentials welcome basket filled with tea, coffee, fresh bread, cheese and even a bottle of wine & beers.

SIGHTSEEING & HISTORY

There isn’t a huge amount to see and do here. Ithaca is perfect for relaxing days on the beach, enjoying quality time with loved ones in home-from-home villas, fantastic for people who enjoy the outdoors, as they have many hiking & cycling trails, enjoy the island from the sea by hiring a boat for the day or sailing,g which is very popular.

Our main reason for visiting Ithaca was that our eldest daughter is studying Latin & Classics – she absolutely loves Greek Mythology.

As the homeland of the legendary hero Odysseus, known as the place of the return journey in the history of mankind, Ithaca is the setting for the epic poem, The Odyssey by Homer. The poem recounts the story of Odysseus, who faces a 10yr journey to return to his beloved wife, Penelope, after the end of the Trojan War.

The island thrived during the Mycenaean period (1500 to 1100 BC), when it was ruled by the Mycenaeans. Some of the prominent archaeological sites on the island include the Mycenaean palace, the ancient acropolis & the ruins of various settlements.

After the fall of the Mycenaeans, the island’s influence diminished & its population decreased during the Hellenistic period & Middle Ages. Later occupied by the Venetians & Ottomans, both of whom left their impact on the architecture, language & customs of the region. Despite these cultural influences, the island has retained its distinct character & connection to its ancient past.

MAIN VILLAGES

Vathy

Ithaca’s capital has one of the world’s largest natural harbours. The first settlements in Vathy trace back to the 17th century, a time when the area was frequently threatened by pirates.

Lots of lovely restaurants & shops to wander through. Make sure you wander through its back alleys with its cobbled steps rising above the town and the main square.

Things to Do:

-Archaeological Museum - houses over 1,000 artefacts, some dating back to the Mycenaean period.

-Maritime-Folklore Museum - has a vast collection of over 1,500 items, including wedding dresses and naval memorabilia donated by the islanders.

-Cave of the Nymphs - above the bay of Dexa, is considered to be the cave where Odysseus, with the help of the goddess Athena, hid the gifts from the king of the Phaeacians upon his return to the island.

Beaches:

-Gidaki - the island’s largest beach, a vast expanse of shingle and pebbles with a shelf of cliffs behind it.

Getting there - while there is a path to Gidaki, it’s not recommended as a means of access. The best way to get there is by water taxi or by hiring a boat.

Notes - there’s no natural shade.

-Filiatro - pebble beach favourite for swimmers, with or without snorkels.

Getting there - 4km from Vathy with parking under the shade of olive trees.

Notes - a cantina offers refreshments and sunbeds, there’s also a beach bar playing chill-out music.

-Sarakiniko - lovely pebbly beach near Filiatro.

Getting there - 10min drive from Vathy.

Notes - has a cantina.

-Dexa - narrow pebble and shingle beach, thought to be where Odysseus was left after his 10-year journey home. Great for snorkelling and swimming.

Getting there - 2km from Vathy with roadside parking.

Notes - has sunbeds and a cantina. The beach is backed by olive trees, so there’s plenty of natural shade.

-Loutsa - lovely, almost sand beach near Vathy.

Getting there - 5min drive from Vathy.

Notes - no cantina or sunbeds available.

Kioni

A seaside gem – lovely seafood restaurants and boutique shops to take a stroll past.

Beaches:

This horseshoe bay comprises several small coves; the one known as Cemetery beach is the largest.

Getting there - the bay is a 50min drive from Vathy, or 25min walk from Kioni waterfront.

Notes - Cemetery beach has a cantina. Some coves have steps down into the sea.

Stavros

This is where we stayed in nearby Polis Bay and absolutely loved it.

The village’s location is a dream, savour the local pastries or traditional Rova, the local cake of rice and honey at the square’s coffee shop.

Things to Do:

Byzantine Church of the Saviour - in the village square.

Bust of Odysseus - in the village square.

Archaeological Collection of Stavros - contains coins, pottery and other artefacts, with some items found in nearby Polis Cave. Some of the exhibits support the idea that Ithaca was once the place that Odysseus called home.

School of Homer or Palace of Odysseus - a Mycenaean-era archaeological site dating back to 1300 BC, unearthed in 2010.

Beaches:

-Polis Bay - popular with families, this sheltered fishing bay offers great views and a friendly atmosphere all year round. Here, traditional fishing boats anchor near a quaint jetty.

Getting there - only a 5min drive from Stavros.

Notes - there’s a cantina and sunbeds for hire.

Exoghi

During the Middle Ages and Venetian era, Exoghi was one of Ithaca’s main villages offering panoramic views over the island. Today, the ruined buildings recall the devastation of the 1953 earthquake.

Frikes

A charming fishing village where yachts & recreational boats find safe anchorage.

Beaches:

-Marmakas - lovely pebbled beach near the small island of Agios Nikolaos. Quiet & scenic beach.

Getting there - best visited by boat. Short drive from Frikes along a dirt road, which can be uneven & rough in places.

Notes - there’s a cantina and sunbeds for hire.

Perachori

An authentic, mountain village near Vathy. Perched on the hillside just above the island‘s capital, Vathy. It‘s known for its traditional character, vineyards, panoramic views and access to some of Ithaca's best walking trails.

Things to Do:

Palaiochora - ruins of Ithaca's medieval settlement, reachable on foot from the village.

Monastery of Taxiarchon (Taxiarches) - in the hills above the village.

Forest of Perachori - a dense oak woodland with walking paths and viewpoints.

Whilst taking in the impressive view, enjoy a homemade pie and enjoy the locally grown wine at one of the two tavernas.

Anogi

One of the oldest and most distinctive villages on Ithaca. Located high on the slopes of Mount Neritos, known for its dramatic views, ancient church and unusual rock formations.

Things to Do:

Byzantine Church of the Virgin Mary - houses magnificent frescoes, but they’re behind locked doors to protect them from the light. You can get the key from Nikos in the traditional coffee shop (kafeneion) next door, although it’s good manners to buy a hot drink & admire the stuffed eagle before you do! Investigate the adjacent 17th-century bell tower,r too.

Prehistoric menhirs (standing stones) - guarding the land as they have for centuries.

Kathara Monastery - find sanctuary at Kathara and enjoy views over Vathy from the bell tower

LOCAL CUISINE

Be sure to sample local specialities such as:

Riganada - bread seasoned with oregano & olive oil

Sofrito - beef cooked in wine, garlic & parsley

Tserepa - chicken, potatoes, tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, lemon & herbs are slow-cooked under a clay dome (tserepa), similar to a small wood-fired oven.

Savoro - a fish dish cooked with raisins

Homemade pies - cheese, onion or spinach are favourites.

Mantolato - a traditional nougat dessert

Rovani - rice and honey cake that coffee shops serve with ice cream.

Remember to pair your meals with a glass of delectable local wine or indulge in refreshing Greek coffee.

Tsipouro (or raki) - a clear grape spirit, typically served as a digestif.

Metaxa brandy - caramely, sweet brandy, enjoy under a star-filled sky to a soundtrack of crickets.

TRAVEL & TRANSPORT

Airport: flight into Kefalonia and ferry or sea taxi from Kefalonia (Sami) to Ithaca (Piso Aetos)

Car rental: Provides the most freedom to explore Ithaka at your own pace.

Public transport: Limited bus service connects the main villages & beaches.

Taxi: Taxis are available but can be expensive, especially during high season.

TOP TIPS

Definitely recommend:

- Hiring a car in Ithaca with a confident driver. Please note that most car hire companies don’t allow you to travel from Kefalonia to Ithaca; therefore,e it’s recommended to hire a car once you arrive on Ithaca. Definitely recommend taking full car insurance with unlimited excess. Whilst Ithaca has good roads, the majority of them are very narrow, making passing oncoming traffic a bit more challenging. There are a lot of very steep mountain roads, therefore definitely need a confident driver.

- Hiring a boat for a day. Don’t forget your mask & snorkel, the water is crystal clear and ideal for swimming & snorkelling.

- Take shoes good for pebbly beaches. Don’t let the pebbles put you off, but I definitely recommend beach shoes as the pebbles are on the beach and in the sea, making you a bit unsteady on your feet. On the plus side, you don’t have to worry about getting sandy!

- Briefly read about Odyssey. The local shops in Vathy sell lovely children’s books about the Odyssey – a nice, quick way to get a basic understanding of his journey and all the mythical gods. These stories really bring the island to life

- Cantinas and Sunbeds. Please note that most of these are only open during high season.