In Colonial times, the beauty of Rwanda's rolling mountainous landscape earned it the description of "The Land of a Thousand Hills". After Independence in 1962 this central African country of just over 26,000 kilometres leaped to fame as the land of "Gorillas in the Mist" the adopted home of Dian Fossey and the most important refuge for the rare Mountain Gorilla.
The dramatic landscape of the Volcanoes national Park is now home to more than 480 habituated Mountain Gorilla's and is one of the best places in the world for Gorilla sightings.
In 1994 Rwanda after decades of rivalry between the Tutsis and Hutus culminated in 800,000 Rwandans dying. This genocide cannot be forgotten and the Genocide Memorial site in Kigali, Rwanda's capital, gives a very graphic account of the massacre plus an explanation of why it happened - it can be very upsetting to visit - as I found out, it was a very humbling experience, especially as our guide in Rwanda lost his father in the genocide. The Rwandan people are very warm and welcoming, very much looking forward to the future, after a troubled past.
The Virungas are the last outpost of the endangered gorillas and the lush slopes provide the most dramatic setting for what must be the best wildlife experience in Africa. Nothing can prepare you for your first sight of a troop of gorillas in their natural habitat. The presence of an adult male silverback - 3 times as bulky as the average man - yet remarkably peaceful and tolerant of human visitors, it defies verbal description.
I was lucky enough to visit the Sabinyo group, a memory I will treasure forever. The trek to reach the gorillas can be anything from 1 hour to 4 hours long through the forest led by experienced trackers who have spent their lives in or close to the forest. You will weave through hanging vines, moss covered Hagenia trees and giant Lobelias.
Each visitor will need a permit before they can embark on the trek. This can be obtained before travel. Only a limited number are available, you are allowed 1 hour with the gorillas and you must stay 7 metres away (try telling them that)!!! You can take photos (thank goodness for digital cameras)!! no flash though. You must also be fit and in good health as reaching the gorillas can be arduous and wet, sometimes you have to trek through thick forest at heights of up to 3000 metres with some difficult terrain. I was lucky our group came down to the lower slopes so we only had to trek for a short time. The group size is small only 8 allowed.
Getting there by flight is via Nairobi then onto Kigali. Passport needs to have 6 months left after your return. No visa required.
When to visit - year round - but gorilla trekking is less demanding during the drier months.
What to wear - informal dress. Daytime is usually warm, mid 20s. You will need sturdier clothing and good footwear for trekking. A thick pair of gardening gloves are useful (in case you come across stinging nettles on the slopes)!!
What to take - Binoculars and a good camera!! plus spare batteries - you really don't want to run out!! A hat and sunglasses are useful.
Food - good western food with a Belgian influence is served in most hotels.
Please call me if you would like to chat about my experience in Rwanda. It was the trip of a lifetime. Would I go again, YES, in a flash