Riding the Canyon Spirit: A Slow Motion Adventure Across the American Southwest

What Is the Canyon Spirit?

The Canyon Spirit is the sister train to the iconic Rocky Mountaineer, famous for its glass-domed carriages and scenic routes through Canada. This US version has traditionally run between Moab, Glenwood Springs, and Denver, but now offers an option to begin further east in Salt Lake City, creating a more dramatic buildup to the red rock landscapes of Utah.

It’s a daytime-only train, meaning:

• You stay in hotels along the route

• Your luggage is transported seamlessly by road

• You enjoy panoramic views without missing a moment

Carriage hosts accompany you throughout, serving meals, pouring wine, and sharing stories that bring the landscape and history of the region to life.

Unlike the Rocky Mountaineer, the Canyon Spirit doesn’t have onboard kitchens. Meals are prepared locally, then heated and served on board. The quality is generally high, and you can expect regional dishes using local suppliers and a selection of American wines.

Day 1: Salt Lake City → Moab

You’ll likely spend a night or two in Salt Lake City before boarding the train. Salt Lake City is known as being the headquarters of the Mormon Church, and whatever your faith, while you are here it is worth visiting:

• The Tabernacle – attend a choir rehearsal,l which is a moving experience regardless of faith

• World’s largest genealogical library – free and fascinating

• Book lunch or dinner at the Joseph Smith Memorial Building overlooking Temple Square (no alcohol served)

• In 2027, the Temple briefly reopens to the public after a six-year restoration — this is a once-in-a-lifetime chance to see inside the Temple

• Join a guided tour to Antelope Island for wild bison and sweeping lake views

• Explore the Walker Centre (once the tallest building between the Missouri River and the West Coast). An evening tour takes you to the roof to see the weather beacon, which still to this day, still provides a nighttime weather forecast to the public using colour-coded LED lights

From Alpine Valleys to Red Rock Country

The train pulls out of Salt Lake City at around 9 am, flags fluttering, hosts greeting you on a red carpet, and a Mimosa in hand. This becomes a charming ritual at each departure.

This first stretch is a gentle introduction to the American West. The Wasatch Mountains rise sharply to the east, their peaks often dusted with snow even in spring. The landscape opens into wide basins, sagebrush plains and distant ridgelines. As the train heads south, the colours shift — greens and greys give way to the first hints of red sandstone.

The pace is unhurried, giving you time to soak in the changing colours and textures. With panoramic windows and an outdoor viewing platform, there’s no such thing as a bad seat.

By the time you approach Moab (at arou3 pm3pm), the scenery becomes unmistakably Southwest: towering buttes, sculpted mesas, and canyon walls glowing deep orange in the afternoon sun.

Moab: Upmarket Hippie Chic

Moab is a delight — artsy, outdoorsy, colourful and buzzing with energy.

Spend the afternoon exploring Canyonlands National Park or Dead Horse Point State Park, where the Colorado River carves deep canyons into the earth. Dinner options range from authentic Mexican at Fiesta Mexicana to the sophisticated Rooted Vine wine bar.

The next morning, grab a coffee from Love Muffin and head into Arches National Park — to beat the crowds and see the sunrise on Delicate Arch — unforgettable! Before joining the train for its midday departure.

Day 2: Moab → Glenwood Springs

Following the Colorado River Through Red Rock Canyons

The train hugs the Colorado River, weaving through narrow canyons where red sandstone walls rise hundreds of feet above you. The colours shift constantly — rust, ochre, crimson, gold — depending on the angle of the sun. I keep reminding myself that this is the same river whose source is just a couple of hundred miles north of Glenwood Springs and flows almost 1,500 miles all the way to the Gulf of California in Mexico, most famously cutting through the heart of the Grand Canyon.

By mid-afternoon, we cross the state line from Utah to Colorado, and the red rocks soften into the foothills of the Rockies. Pines appear. The air cools. The palette shifts from desert reds to alpine greens and greys.

Glenwood Springs: Hot Springs & Wild West Charm

Glenwood Springs is a classic mountain town, which, before the 1800s,s was inhabited by the Ute Indians, a nomadic tribe who made their summer home in the area. It later attracted adventurers, trappers and prospectors travelling west to the California gold rush, but ultimately became famous for its hot springs. The Glenwood Hot Springs Pool (in the centre of town, opposite the train station and no need to book) is the largest mineral hot spring pool in the world, dating back to 1888. For a more refined experience, head to Iron Mountain Hot Spring,s which offers smaller pools overlooking the river (book in advance).

Day 3: Glenwood Springs → Denver

Into the Rockies and Out onto the Great Plains

This final leg is a dramatic ascent into the high Rockies, peaking at over 9,000 feet. You will undoubtedly witness bald eagles nesting, elk grazing, and we even spotted a lone coyote in the distance.

The train winds through forests, past alpine rivers, and along a stretch known as Moon River, so named because of the way the fishermen acknowledge the passing train.

Then, suddenly, the mountains fall away, and through the gap,s you will spot the Great Plains appear open wide and flat, and the skyline of Denver appears like a mirage in the distance. A series of sharp switchbacks before we land firmly in the Great Plains, and the final stretch to Denver,r where our journey ends.

Denver itself feels vibrant, walkable and full of character — craft breweries, art museums, and the legendary Rockmount store for authentic Western wear.

Final Thoughts

The Canyon Spirit is a perfect journey for midlife travellers who want comfort, scenery, storytelling, and a sense of adventure without rushing.

It’s immersive without being exhausting. It’s luxurious without being stuffy. It lets you feel the land — not rush through it.

Top Tips & Recommendations

Best Direction to Travel

The most dramatic scenery is between Moab and Denver. It does not really matter which direction you travel in, but I particularly enjoyed views of the Great Plains unfolding as we descended from the mountains.

An alternative itinerary would be to start your trip in Las Vegas and tour other Utah National Parks (such as Zion, Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef) before arriving in Moab for a couple of nights. This would give you more time to explore Canyonlands and Arches before joining the train in Moab.

If you wish to visit Yellowstone or Grand Teton, start in Salt Lake City (these parks are a 4–5 hr drive from Salt Lake City) and end in Denver, so the landscapes build in intensity.

Where to Stay

Choosing a Canyon Spirit Partner Hotel makes life easier:

• Check-in happens at the hotel

• You’re transported directly to the train

• Luggage is handled seamlessly

Salt Lake City

• Grand America – grand luxury

• Asher Adams – modern luxury

• Little America – mid-range affordable

Moab

• Hampton Inn – mid-range option that is walkable into the centre of Moab – other mid-range options are further out of town

• Hoodoo Hotel – central, 5-star “modern luxury meets Western style” with pools and outdoor dining. A hoodoo is the name given to the tall,l thin spires of rock typical of the area.

Glenwood Springs

• Hotel Maxwell Anderson (formerly Hotel Denver) – 3-star hotel, historic (fabulous lobby with a real “wild west” feel), central, opposite the station

• Hotel Colorado – storied… and famously haunted – it’s hosted presidents and Titanic survivors

• Courtyard by Marriott – modern 3-star hotel outside of town

Download the Ride RF app for transport in the town and surrounding area for $1 per ride (perfect if you are staying out of town or wish to visit the Iron Mountain Hot Springs, gs which are slightly out of town).

Denver

• Hotel Indigo – 5 minutes from the station

• The Crawford Hotel – inside Union Station, stylish and atmospheric

Other Practical Tips

• Book Moab excursions at the same time that you book the train. It is possible to book excursions when you are on board the train, but at the time of writing,g the train staff provide information, but you have to make the bookings yourself — there’s no WiFi on board, and the signal is patchy. If you do book a tour, make sure the tour provider knows you are doing the Canyon Spirit, and they will collect/drop off at the train station

• Notify dietary requirements in advance. Different diets can be catered for if advance notice is given,n but the main menoffersed few vegetarian, vegan or gluten-free options

• We travelled in SignatureExperiencec,e but the elevated Premier Upgrade gives access to the lounge car for cocktails and easier socialising, although the main seated carriages are the same for both classes of travel