A Christmas Break in Copenhagen: Eat, Explore, Repeat

Copenhagen is one of those cities that instantly wins you over. It’s effortlessly stylish, easy to get around, and full of small pleasures: from warm pastries and cold beer to colourful streets and calm canals. We spent a few days exploring the Danish capital and quickly understood why it’s considered one of the world’s happiest cities. Here’s what we found, loved, and learned during our stay....

Where to Stay: Absalon Hotel

We stayed at the Absalon Hotel, a stylish and comfortable base in the Vesterbro district. The location couldn’t have been better as it‘s just a short walk from Tivoli Gardens and Central Station. This made it easy to explore the city on foot or by bike.

Getting into the city couldn’t be simpler. The train station is located inside the airport, and you’ll be in the heart of Copenhagen in just three stops. It’s quick, cheap, and far less stressful than airport transfers in most cities (ideal if you’re arriving with luggage or kids in tow).

The hotel’s Concept Green initiative really stood out. Guests are encouraged to decline daily housekeeping as part of their sustainability program, and in return, you receive a small gift. It’s a thoughtful touch that perfectly reflects Copenhagen’s eco-conscious culture. These gifts included: half price bike rental, a drink voucher or some REN toiletries.

The hotel combines thoughtful details with a relaxed atmosphere, and it felt like a genuine reflection of the city itself: modern, welcoming, and green in more ways than one.

Get a Bike

If you only do one thing in Copenhagen, make it this: hire a bike. The city is completely flat, and every road has a dedicated bike lane. Most hotels, including ours, rent bikes for around 75 krona (£10 per day. This was half price with our ‘Concept Green‘ gift. It’s the fastest, most enjoyable way to explore, and it’ll make you feel like a local in no time.

Eat Everything

Copenhagen’s food culture is something special, relaxed and with an obsessive focus on quality. Even the smallest food stalls feel like they care about flavour and presentation. You don’t have to eat at Michelin-starred restaurants to experience what makes Danish cuisine so exciting; the same creativity runs right through its markets, bakeries and cafés.

• Torvehallerne Market – My favourite stop. Don’t miss the Flæskesteg sandwich (roast pork with crispy crackling, pickles, red cabbage and two sauces). It’s honestly one of the best sandwiches I’ve ever eaten.
• Sct Peders Bakery – The oldest bakery in Copenhagen and a must for pastry lovers. With only a few tables inside, it’s cosy and full of character.
• Smørrebrød – These open-faced sandwiches are everywhere; we had ours at Tivoli Food Hall, and they were excellent.
• Poulette – Made famous after Dua Lipa called it her favourite chicken sandwich, and she wasn’t wrong.
• Street Hot Dogs – A Danish street food classic, served from small huts and topped with pickles, crispy onions and sauces.
• Reffen- an outdoor street food market made of shipping containers- is a local favourite in summer, but many vendors pop up in indoor halls during the colder months.

Running and the Outdoors

If you enjoy running, you’ll be in good company as the Danes are serious about fitness. We joined the local Parkrun, but the paths around The Lakes are ideal for a scenic jog or walk. The views of the city reflected in the water are reason enough to lace up your trainers.

Drinking and Nightlife

Copenhagen’s nightlife is vibrant but pricey — expect to pay around £9 a pint.

• Around Proud Mary, you’ll find plenty of English, Scottish and Irish pubs, live music and sports on TV.
• The bars north of Nyhavn are smaller and more atmospheric, perfect for a relaxed evening.
• If you’re there in early November, look out for Julebryg, Tuborg’s Christmas beer, celebrated with a lively city-wide launch that locals look forward to each year.
• Gløgg & Hygge- Every café, bakery and market stall serves gløgg, Denmark’s take on mulled wine — usually red wine spiced with cinnamon and cloves, topped with almonds and raisins. Pair it with æbleskiver, little pancake balls dusted with icing sugar and served with jam. It’s peak Danish hygge.

Sights and Experiences

• Tivoli Gardens – It was closed during our visit as they were switching from Halloween to Christmas, but it’s said to be magical in winter.
• Nyhavn – Famous for its colourful buildings and waterfront views. Worth a walk and a few photos, though the restaurants are pricey and a bit of a tourist trap.
• The Little Mermaid – Go, take your photo, and be prepared for how small she is. It‘s a quick but classic stop.
• Amalienborg Palace – Changing of the Guard at midday every day — impressive and worth the detour.
• Christiania – The city’s alternative community, known for its free-spirited vibe.
• Christmas Markets – We visited Højbro Plads, which was small but full of festive atmosphere.

Live Music & Concerts

Copenhagen has a lively music scene, and if you’re a fan of live performances, there’s always something going on. During our trip, we were lucky enough to see Mumford & Sons, which was an unforgettable experience with the energy of the crowd and the beautiful Danish venues adding to the atmosphere.

The city hosts a wide variety of concerts, from intimate gigs in cosy bars to big-name acts in larger arenas. Venues like Royal Arena, Tivoli Concert Hall, Copenhagen Opera House, and smaller spots such as Pumpehuset or Loppen in Christiania regularly feature both international and local acts.

Sports

We cycled out to watch Brøndby IF, which was a great experience. Denmark has two big football teams in Copenhagen: FC Copenhagen and Brøndby IF, both with passionate fan bases and historic rivalries. Football is definitely the most popular sport, but Denmark also excels in handball, cycling, and badminton, and you’ll find strong local support for these sports as well.

Practical Tips

It’s cold in December, so bring hats, gloves and your warmest coat.

Some places add around 10% when paying with UK cards, so carry a little cash.

Everyone speaks excellent English and is incredibly friendly.

Final Thoughts

Copenhagen is stylish, efficient and full of charm. From its calm lakes to its buzzing food markets, it’s a city that manages to feel both modern and homely. Whether you’re cycling past canals, sipping Christmas beer, or tucking into a flaky pastry in the cold, it’s a place that feels instantly comfortable... and one I’d go back to in a heartbeat.